Words by Patsy O’Neill
3 Minute Read
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There have been some fairly overwhelming ‘big brow’ trends over the last 5 years…
…so if you’re feeling a bit lost as to what’s best for you, I’m going to try to help.
If you fell victim to the over-plucked-eyebrow days of the 90s and you would like to encourage more growth, there are so many effective eyebrow growth serums on the market. Just be patient, as it will take a few cycles of growth to notice a difference. I reckon it takes 4-8 weeks on average to retrain your brows. Once you are armed with the right tools all you need is patience and some decent lighting to make sure you only remove the excess brow hairs and NOT the brow hairs that you need. I would aim to honour your natural brow shape if you want a classic timeless look.
What’s in my brow shaping kit?
A growth serum
For great value, I rate The Ordinary, Multi-Peptide Lash & Brow Serum, £12.40 to encourage growth – and this can be used on both brows and lashes!
A good tweezer
If your brows require a tidy up, the cheapest option is the tweezer, but please invest in a good quality tweezer like this Tweezerman, Slant Tweezer, Green Apple, £23. They make a huge variety of tweezers and these brightly coloured ones are always visible in the undoubtable Tardis that is make up bag!
A magnifying mirror
A 10x magnifying mirror is essential for being able to see clearly which lashes need to be removed. Most High Street chemists do them, and if you need tweezers and a mirror, this Tweezerman, Rose Gold Mini Slant 10x Mirror Duo, £27 is a good quality set!
A brow brush (spoolie)
Brushing the brow hairs upwards firstly is always a must. You can purchase a brow brush like this e.l.f., Brow Lift Applicator, £4 – or you can always up cycle an old toothbrush for the job!
Other brow shaping options
I am a fan of threading as this can remove all the tiny hairs and give you a very sharp line.
BUT: unless you have very uncontrollable brows, please don’t allow removal of brows at the top, only from below.
Very thick and unruly brows could benefit from laminating, which really helps calm the hairs at the root and keep brows laying flat for a growth cycle.
What’s in your brow filling & defining kit?
Angled brow pencil
I love a good quality brow pencil and most brands have angled ones nowadays. The beauty of the angle is that it really helps the application process as the angle makes it so much easier to apply. They mainly twist up so no sharpener required, and some have the bonus of a double end to include a spoolie for brushing. The point on the angle is helpful for drawing in lines where you may have gaps and the flat angle is perfect for creating the tapered line towards the side/end of the brow line.
Micro tip brow pens
Tiny headed brow pencils are very good for fair brows and for filling gaps in a subtle way. The micro tip helps your steady hand paint in tiny hair lines with precision. These come in a Kohl Pencil medium or an Ink Pen.
Brow ink pens that create 3 lines
Now these are amazing for giving you the look of more hairs and for creating quick impact. They’re great for filling in large gaps or for building up brows after extreme hair loss.
But, try not to be too heavy handed with this. Practice when you have a bit more time to get used to the amount of pressure you need to apply it well.
Brow pomade is great for filling in sparse areas of the eyebrow to form a soft and flawless arch. Brow pomades are durable products. They dry matte to give a smudge-proof and waterproof finish, so perfect if you’re in a hot environment. I would use an angled brow brush for application like this NYX Professional Makeup, Pro Dual Brow Brush, £9. Some pomades can also be applied as eyeliner too, so that’s a bonus!
To finish off your brows and to keep them in place I would suggest a brow gel. They come in different colours, but my advice is to invest in a clear one. One sweep will keep all your brows in place and give a clean finished look. On days where you don’t have any time for any brow love and attention, one sweep of a brow mascara wand across your brows will do wonders!
What happens if you over-pluck?
When you create a rounded arch you know you have removed too much hair. If this is you, stop and let your brows grow back – it should hopefully only take 3-6weeks – especially if you encourage with a growth serum.
What’s the one thing everyone forgets?
The one brow area most people forget is where your brows tail off. I think it’s because this is off to the side of our faces and we mainly only look in the mirror face on. Don’t forget to finish the line properly and tapper it out to complete your perfect brow look.
That’s my brow lecture done. Hope that helps x
Makeup Artist and Beauty Consultant